This proudly run, welcoming bistro is set in the heart of Ireland's oldest city and occupies a building dating back to the 15th century. The ground-floor room boasts a lovely barrel-fronted bar, while the vaulted brick cellar has an intimate feel. The modern, sensibly priced dishes come with a degree of complexity, but the biggest strength lies in the natural flavours of the fine Irish produce. Fresh, snow-white hake is a perfect example, delicious on its own but enhanced nevertheless by piquant salsa verde and top-quality mash.